In the Balkans Communism is certainly over. After the party's fall the ideology started changing but the old monuments remain. Buzludzha in Bulgaria, once a site of major party pilgrimage, stands forlorn on its mountaintop. An unfinished post office tower and a massive transformer-like monument dwarf the small town of Shumen. In Romania the "People's Palace" still has 1100 empty rooms and a military plane is now a garden shed. Red is still THE color of Albania, but the old "Gods" are fading, replaced by the new icons of golden arches and Johnnie Walker.